If your skincare routine stopped working in your forties or early fifties, menopause is very likely the reason. Falling oestrogen changes the skin in ways that most women are not warned about, including a loss of roughly 30% of skin collagen in the first five years, increased dryness, a weakened barrier and, for some women, the return of hormonal acne along the jawline.
Dr Derrick Phillips, Consultant Dermatologist, explains what is happening to the skin during menopause and how to rebuild a menopause skincare routine around what your skin actually needs at this stage, rather than simply adding more products to one that is no longer working.
How Does Menopause Change the Skin?
The decline in oestrogen that accompanies menopause has direct effects on the skin that are well established in the clinical literature. Understanding the mechanism behind each change makes it significantly easier to choose the right ingredients to address it.
What oestrogen decline does to the skin, each change has a distinct mechanism:
- Hormonal acne — the androgen-to-oestrogen ratio shifts as oestrogen falls; androgens stimulate sebaceous glands, triggering the same deep, jawline acne pattern seen in younger women with hormonal acne
- Collagen loss — women lose nearly 1/3 of skin collagen in the first 5 years of menopause, according to a review article in Clinical and Experimental Dermatology. This is faster than at any other adult life stage and is the primary driver of rapid visible ageing during the transition
- Increased dryness and trans-epidermal water loss — oestrogen regulates aquaporins and hyaluronic acid production; as levels fall, the skin loses water more readily and the barrier weakens
- Reduced elasticity — hyaluronic acid and elastin production are both oestrogen-dependent; their decline produces loss of plumpness and skin bounce
- Increased reactivity — a compromised barrier lets irritants in more easily; conditions such as rosacea and eczema often worsen during this period
Simple Menopause Skincare Routine
The following routine is built around the four priorities Dr Phillips recommends for menopausal skin that includes supporting collagen production, repairing and maintaining the skin barrier, preserving hydration and protecting against UV-driven accelerated skin ageing.
Morning Skincare Routine
Step 1: Gentle hydrating cleanser
As oestrogen levels decline, the skin loses moisture more readily and becomes increasingly prone to dryness and irritation. Foaming or gel cleansers formulated for oily or younger skin can therefore be too stripping. A gentle hydrating cleanser, such as a cream or milk formulation that is fragrance free, cleanses effectively without further compromising the skin barrier. Over cleansing is one of the most common barriers to improving menopausal skin.
Dr Derrick Phillips recommends these hydrating cleansers for menopausal skin: Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser and CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
Step 2: Vitamin C serum
Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that helps neutralise free radical damage from UV and environmental exposure, while also supporting collagen production. This is particularly relevant around and after the menopause, when collagen levels decline and the skin becomes more prone to loss of firmness and elasticity.
A stable, well formulated vitamin C serum applied in the morning can provide antioxidant protection and support collagen synthesis alongside daily SPF. L ascorbic acid is the most extensively studied form, commonly used at concentrations of around 10 to 15%, although gentler formulations may be better suited to sensitive skin.
Dr Derrick Phillips recommends these Vitamin C serums for menopausal skin: SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic and Vichy LiftActiv 15% Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum
Step 3: Rich moisturiser with ceramides and lipids
Ceramides are lipids that form an essential part of the skin barrier, helping to hold skin cells together and reduce water loss. During and after the menopause, declining oestrogen levels contribute to reduced lipid production, which can leave the skin drier, more sensitive and less able to retain moisture.
A moisturiser containing ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol can help support barrier repair and improve hydration. Richer formulations are often better tolerated at this stage of life, particularly if the skin has become noticeably drier or more reactive.
Dr Derrick Phillips recommends this moisturiser for menopausal skin: SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2
Find more dermatologist favorites for ceramide moisturisers in this Glamour article.
Step 4: Broad-spectrum SPF 50
UV exposure is one of the main external drivers of collagen breakdown, making daily sun protection particularly important during and after the menopause, when declining oestrogen is already contributing to loss of collagen and skin elasticity. A broad spectrum SPF 50 applied every morning helps protect against further UV damage and is one of the most important steps for slowing visible skin ageing. It should be used consistently throughout the year, including on overcast days and when spending prolonged periods near windows.
Dr Derrick Phillips recommends this SPF for menopausal skin: La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 50+
Evening Skincare Routine
Step 1: Double cleanse
In the evening, a two step cleanse can help remove sunscreen, make up and environmental residue more thoroughly. An oil or cream cleanser can be used first to dissolve sunscreen and make up, followed by a gentle hydrating cleanser to cleanse the skin without stripping it. This leaves the skin clean and comfortable before applying any evening treatments.
Dr Derrick Phillips recommends this Oil Cleanser for menopausal skin: CeraVe Hydrating Foaming Oil Cleanser
Step 2: Retinoid
Retinoids remain the most evidence based topical treatments for skin ageing and have an important role during and after the menopause. They stimulate collagen production, increase cell turnover and improve fine lines, texture and uneven pigmentation, helping to address several of the skin changes associated with declining oestrogen.
Prescription tretinoin has the strongest evidence, while retinaldehyde can be a useful alternative for those who find tretinoin too irritating. Retinol remains an effective over the counter option. Whichever retinoid is used, it should be introduced gradually, usually two to three nights per week initially, before increasing frequency according to tolerance.
Dr Derrick Phillips recommends these retinoids for menopausal skin: Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.07% and Medik8 Crystal Retinal
For a full guide to the different retinoid types and how to use them, see Top 5 Tips to Get the Most Out of Your Retinoids, Retinol vs Retinal vs Tretinoin and 8 Best Retinols for Mature Skin
Step 3: Peptide moisturiser
A peptide containing moisturiser can be a useful addition to an evening routine during and after the menopause, particularly when the skin is becoming drier or more sensitive. Peptides may help support collagen and elastin production, while the moisturising base helps restore the skin barrier and reduce water loss overnight.
Peptides are generally well tolerated alongside retinoids and can complement their effects without adding significant irritation. A richer evening moisturiser may also help buffer dryness or sensitivity from retinoid use and support overnight barrier repair.
Dr Derrick Phillips recommends these peptide moisturisers for menopausal skin: Tata Harper Water-Lock Moisturizer and Medik8 Advanced Pro-Collagen+ Peptide Cream.
Find more dermatologist peptide favorites in this Elle article that features Dr Phillips.
For more on the role of peptides in anti-ageing skincare, see Peptides for Skin: Is It Worth Adding to Your Skincare Routine?
Menopause Breakouts
A less commonly discussed change around the menopause is the development or worsening of acne, particularly along the jawline and chin. As oestrogen levels decline, the relative influence of androgens increases, which can stimulate sebaceous gland activity and contribute to deeper, tender inflammatory breakouts.
This can create a difficult balance, as the skin may be becoming drier and more sensitive at the same time that acne is developing. Treatment therefore needs to address both concerns, controlling inflammatory breakouts without further compromising the skin barrier. A dermatologist led assessment can be particularly helpful in this setting, allowing treatment to be tailored to the hormonal pattern of the acne as well as the dryness and sensitivity associated with menopausal skin
What In-Clinic Treatments Help Menopausal Skin?
For patients who want to go beyond what topical menopause skincare can achieve, several in-clinic treatments directly address the collagen loss and skin quality changes of menopause:
- Polynucleotides — injectable skin boosters that stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production from within the dermis, directly addressing the structural changes driving loss of firmness and hydration. (update link with new page)
- Non-ablative laser rejuvenation — the LaseMD Ultra stimulates collagen with minimal downtime, and the BabyFace facial incorporates laser-assisted delivery of hydrating and collagen-supporting actives (update link with new page)
- Fractional resurfacing — the UltraClear laser and CO₂ laser produce more significant collagen remodelling for patients with established fine lines, textural change or scarring (update link with new page)
- Vascular laser — for patients whose rosacea or facial redness worsens during the menopause transition, the Lutronic Derma V addresses the vascular component alongside medical management (update link with new page)
Book a consultation with Dr Derrick Phillips to discuss an in-clinic programme alongside your revised menopause skincare routine.
What Are the Most Important Skincare Priorities During Menopause?
Rather than simply adding more products, Dr Phillips recommends anchoring the menopausal skincare routine around three clear objectives:
- Support collagen production with vitamin C in the morning, retinoid at night, and where appropriate, in-clinic collagen-stimulating treatments
- Repair and maintain the skin barrier with ceramide-rich moisturiser, gentle cleansing, avoiding over-stripping
- Maintain hydration with hydrating cleansers, peptide and ceramide moisturisers, avoiding dehydrating actives used without adequate moisturisation
These three priorities, addressed consistently with the right ingredients in the right sequence, produce more meaningful results than a shelf full of products without this framework.
Frequently Asked Questions in Clinic
Why did my skin change so much during menopause?
Oestrogen decline during menopause reduces collagen production, impairs the skin’s ability to retain water, compromises the skin barrier and shifts the androgen-to-oestrogen balance, all of which affect the skin’s appearance, texture and behaviour simultaneously. The speed of collagen loss in particular, approximately 1/3 in the first five years, is faster than at any other stage of adult life and accounts for much of the visible change.
Can menopause cause itchy skin?
Yes. Itchy skin, known clinically as pruritus, is a recognised but frequently overlooked symptom of menopause. As oestrogen levels fall, the skin produces less hyaluronic acid, ceramides and natural oils, causing the barrier to weaken and moisture to escape more readily. This increased trans-epidermal water loss leaves the skin drier and more reactive, and for many women, itchiness, tightness and a crawling or prickling sensation on the skin, sometimes called formication, are among the first signs that their skin is changing. The itch can affect the face, arms, legs and torso and tends to worsen in winter or in heated indoor environments where humidity is low. Managing it focuses on barrier repair, specifically ceramide-rich moisturisers applied to damp skin, avoiding hot water and fragranced products, and treating any underlying condition such as eczema or contact sensitivity that may be amplifying the itch. Where itching is severe or accompanied by a visible rash, a consultation with a dermatologist is advisable to confirm the cause before treating it.
What skincare ingredients are most important during menopause?
Vitamin C for collagen support and antioxidant protection in the morning; a retinoid for collagen stimulation and cell renewal at night; ceramide-rich moisturisers for barrier repair; and daily SPF 50. Peptides are a useful addition to the evening routine to support overnight repair.
Can menopause cause acne?
Yes. Hormonal changes during the perimenopause and menopause can trigger or worsen acne, particularly along the jawline and chin. As oestrogen levels decline, the relative influence of androgens increases, which can stimulate sebaceous gland activity and contribute to inflammatory breakouts.
Because menopausal skin may also be becoming drier and more sensitive, treatment often needs to balance acne control with protection of the skin barrier. A dermatologist can tailor treatment to both concerns rather than relying on standard anti ageing skincare alone.
Is retinol safe to use during menopause?
Yes, and it is one of the most beneficial ingredients for menopausal skin specifically, as it directly stimulates collagen production and addresses the cell turnover slowdown that contributes to dull, textured skin. Start with a low concentration two to three nights per week and build gradually, always following with a rich moisturiser and daily SPF.
Do I need different skincare products once I reach menopause?
Often, yes. Products formulated for oily, combination or younger skin may not provide adequate hydration or barrier support for menopausal skin. Richer, more hydrating formulations with ceramides and lipids, and a vitamin C serum if not already used, are typically the most beneficial additions or switches during this transition.
Author: Dr Derrick Phillips, Consultant Dermatologist, MBBS BSc (HONS) FRCP (Dermatology)
Last reviewed: August 2026