One of the most common skincare concerns Dr Derrick Phillips is asked about in his London clinics is “how do I get rid of my pores?” The problem is: you cannot remove pores, and you do not want to. Pores are normal, functional skin openings connected to hair follicles and sebaceous glands, and they exist to release the sebum that keeps your skin barrier healthy. The goal is not elimination, but it is understanding what makes them look more prominent than they need to, and using the right tools to minimise pore size.
As a Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Phillips takes a straightforward, evidence-based view to reduce pore size: it is largely structural and genetic, but it is also meaningfully influenced by skincare habits, sun damage and the consistency with which the right actives are used. This article covers what actually causes pores to look bigger, which ingredients have genuine evidence behind them, and how to minimise pores over the counter and in the office.
The Truth About Pore Size
Pore size is fundamentally determined by the size of the sebaceous gland beneath it and the volume of the hair follicle it belongs to — both of which are largely genetically determined. This is why some people have visibly larger pores than others regardless of their skincare routine, and why no topical product will permanently change the physical size of a pore opening.
What topical products and in-clinic treatments can do is address the factors that make pores appear larger than their structural baseline, and several of these factors are very much within your control, which we will offer treatment for in this article.
What makes pores look bigger
Genetics is the baseline driver — if your parents have visible pores, you are more likely to as well. But beyond genetics, the four main amplifiers are:
Excess oil production — naturally oilier skin types and those with active hormonal acne tend to have more visible pores because the sebaceous glands are producing more sebum, keeping the pore openings fuller and more visible.
Congestion and blackheads — blackheads, also known as open comedones, form when a pore becomes blocked with sebum and dead skin cells. When this material is exposed to air, it oxidises and darkens, creating the characteristic dark plug seen within the pore. This can make pores appear more visible, partly because the pore opening is physically stretched by the trapped debris rather than simply appearing darker as a cosmetic shadow.
Sun damage — UV exposure degrades collagen and elastin, which reduces the skin’s structural support. As the skin around the pore loses firmness, the opening appears wider. This is why pores often become more visible with age, and why sun protection is not just a cosmetic concern but a genuine structural one.
Dehydrated or poorly maintained skin barrier — when the skin barrier is compromised, surface texture becomes uneven, and textural irregularity creates shadows around pore openings that make them appear deeper and larger than they actually are.
Clinical insight: The patients who are most frustrated by their pores are often those who have been using harsh astringents, aggressive exfoliation or pore strips in an attempt to “close” them. The irony is that these approaches frequently worsen the situation — stripping the barrier increases sebum production as the skin compensates, which keeps pores fuller, not cleaner. Consistent, gentle use of the right actives over weeks and months produces far better results than any aggressive short-term intervention.
Evidence-based ingredients that actually help minimise the appearance of pores
These four ingredients have genuine clinical evidence behind them for improving pore appearance. They work through different mechanisms, which is why using them in combination, rather than rotating through them, typically produces better results.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), which means it can penetrate into the pore itself rather than just exfoliating the surface. Once inside the pore, it dissolves the oil and dead skin debris causing congestion, which is what makes it the most directly targeted ingredient for visibly enlarged or congested pores. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that help with the redness associated with active breakouts.
Look for leave-on formulations (serums, toners) at 0.5–2% rather than rinse-off cleansers, which don’t stay on the skin long enough to penetrate effectively. Start with lower concentrations if you have sensitive skin and build up gradually.
Recommended Products: Cerave SA Smoothing Cleanser, Cerave Blemish Control Gel and Cetaphil Salicylic Acid Cleanser
Retinoids
Retinoids — including over-the-counter retinol and prescription-strength tretinoin — address pore appearance through multiple mechanisms simultaneously: they increase cell turnover to prevent dead skin from accumulating inside pores, they stimulate collagen production to firm the skin around pore openings, and they regulate sebum production over time. This breadth of action makes them one of the most effective long-term pore-improving ingredients available.
The trade-off is that retinoids require patience — meaningful improvement in pore appearance typically takes 3–6 months of consistent use, and the initial adjustment period can involve some dryness and flaking.
Dr Phillips is featured in this Beginners Guide to Retinol in SheerLuxe.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) regulates sebum production, strengthens the skin barrier and reduces the appearance of enlarged pores through its effect on oil output. Because it works on the sebaceous gland activity rather than directly on pore congestion, it is most effective as a preventive ingredient — reducing the amount of oil that fills pores in the first place, rather than clearing congestion that has already built up. It is also one of the best-tolerated ingredients available, suitable for sensitive and reactive skin types.
Dr Derrick Phillips recommends The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% & Zinc 1% Oil Control Serum and Cerave Blemish Control Gel.
SPF (daily, broad-spectrum)
Sunscreen is the ingredient most patients are surprised to see on a pore-improvement list, but the evidence is clear. UV exposure is one of the primary drivers of collagen degradation, and collagen loss directly translates to less structural support around pore openings and a wider, more visible appearance over time. Daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher protects the collagen and elastin that keep pores looking tighter, and the improvement compounds over years of consistent use in a way that no targeted active can replicate alone.
Consistent use of SPF is as important for pore appearance as any serum or active and it is the one step most patients are most inconsistent about.
How to use these ingredients together
Used together, these four ingredients address congestion, sebum production, collagen support and UV protection simultaneously, which is why a routine that includes all four tends to outperform any one ingredient used alone.
A practical approach:
- Morning: Cleanser → niacinamide serum → moisturiser → SPF 30+ (always last)
- Evening: Cleanser → salicylic acid (2–3 nights per week if new to it, building to daily) → retinoid (alternate nights initially, building to nightly) → moisturiser
Give any new routine 8–12 weeks before assessing results — most active ingredients need this time to produce visible change at a cellular level.
Unsure how to layer these ingredients correctly for your skin type? Dr Phillips can build a personalised skincare routine around what your skin actually needs.
When in-clinic treatment is worth considering
For patients whose pore concerns go beyond what a topical routine can address — particularly where there is significant collagen loss, deep textural irregularity or a history of acne scarring that has affected pore structure — in-clinic treatments offer a step change in outcomes that topicals cannot match.
Microneedling creates controlled micro-injury to the skin that stimulates collagen and elastin production, progressively improving skin texture and tightening the appearance of pores over a course of treatments. For more, see the Cosmetic Dermatology page.
Radiofrequency microneedling combines the collagen-stimulating effect of microneedling with radiofrequency energy delivered deeper into the skin, producing more pronounced skin tightening and pore refinement — particularly effective where skin laxity is contributing to pore appearance.
Non-ablative lasers stimulate collagen remodelling without removing the skin surface — suitable for patients who want meaningful improvement with minimal downtime. The UltraClear laser is particularly well suited for texture and pore refinement.
Ablative fractional lasers — such as the UltraPulse Fractional Ablative CO₂ laser — produce more significant collagen remodelling and surface renewal, with more downtime but correspondingly more dramatic results for texture, pore size and overall skin quality.
The right in-clinic option depends on skin type, skin tone, degree of concern and tolerance for downtime. Dr Phillips assesses each patient individually and recommends the most appropriate approach — or a combination of approaches — based on the full picture.
Pores that aren’t responding to topical treatment? Book a consultation to discuss whether an in-clinic treatment is the right next step.
Pore Size Reduction Timeline
Topical treatment for pore appearance is a long game. Most patients see meaningful improvement after 8–12 weeks of consistent use of the right actives and continued improvement with sustained use over months. In-clinic treatments produce more significant results but require a course of sessions (typically 3–6 for microneedling or laser) spaced 4–6 weeks apart, with results continuing to develop for months after the course is complete as collagen remodelling progresses.
Realistic expectation: visibly smaller-looking pores with a smoother skin texture, not invisible pores. The goal is improvement, not elimination.
FAQs Answered in Clinic
Can you actually shrink pores?
You cannot change the physical size of a pore — it is structurally determined by the follicle and sebaceous gland beneath it. What you can do is significantly reduce their visible appearance by addressing congestion, excess oil, collagen loss and surface texture with the right ingredients and, where needed, in-clinic treatments.
What ingredient is best for large pores?
Salicylic acid is the most directly targeted for congested pores because it is oil-soluble and penetrates inside the pore. Retinoids are the most comprehensive — they address congestion, sebum production and collagen simultaneously. Niacinamide regulates oil production. All four work better together than any one alone.
Does niacinamide reduce pore size?
Niacinamide reduces pore appearance by regulating sebum production — less oil output means pores stay less full and look smaller. It does not change the physical structure of the pore but is one of the most consistently effective and well-tolerated ingredients for managing their visibility.
Does retinol help with pores?
Yes — retinoids increase cell turnover to prevent congestion, stimulate collagen to firm skin around pore openings, and regulate sebum production over time. They are among the most evidence-backed ingredients for pore appearance improvement, but require 3–6 months of consistent use to see meaningful results.
Does SPF help with pores?
Indirectly but significantly — UV exposure degrades collagen and elastin, causing skin to lose firmness around pore openings and making them look wider. Daily broad-spectrum SPF protects this structural support, and its effect on pore appearance compounds over years of consistent use.
What in-clinic treatment is best for enlarged pores?
It depends on the underlying cause and skin type. Microneedling and radiofrequency microneedling stimulate collagen and improve texture progressively over a course of sessions. Non-ablative lasers (UltraClear) refine texture with minimal downtime. Fractiona ablative lasers (e.g. CO₂ and UltraClear) produce more dramatic results where significant collagen remodelling is needed. Dr Phillips assesses the right option at consultation.